Riyadh through the eyes of an Azerbaijani journalist Caliber.Az exclusive

The capital of Saudi Arabia doesn’t impress immediately. At first, it’s surprising that a city so vast in both area and population (around 8 million residents) has so few skyscrapers, and generally, so few buildings taller than four or five stories.

Indeed, the view is striking. On one hand, you see the 99-story luxury Burj Al-Mamlaka (“Kingdom Tower”), while on the other, there is an endless row of uniform residential buildings in the Arab architectural style of the 1960s–1980s, occasionally interrupted by a few smaller skyscrapers, far smaller than the “needle-like” Kingdom Tower, which is visible from miles away due to the lack of tall buildings.

Riyadh is a city capable of surprising even seasoned travellers. The first surprises begin at the airport, where baggage checks are extremely strict—especially for tourists—for alcohol.

If you have even a single bottle or can in your luggage, you will be asked to open it. And God forbid they find alcohol! The minimum consequence is confiscation and immediate deportation, even for a couple of beers. If stronger spirits are discovered, the consequences can be severe. While it may not involve amputation like for thieves, you could easily find yourself in jail straight from the airport. So under no circumstances attempt to bring alcohol into Saudi Arabia.

Another point to note: do not confuse dress codes or social norms here with those in the UAE. Even male tourists are not allowed to walk around in shorts, and female tourists must avoid low-cut dresses, instead wearing a light robe over their clothing despite the heat.

Calling Riyadh a “religious city” is an understatement. Saudi Arabia is the centre of Islam, and local women mostly wear traditional clothing such as the niqab, hijab, and abaya.

Temperatures during the day are as hot as in neighbouring UAE or Qatar, but evenings are quite cool, so it’s wise to pack a sweatshirt or long-sleeve shirt.

The people of Riyadh—meaning the locals—are very friendly: they will readily give directions, help you, and even accompany you as close as possible to your destination. In commerce, there’s little to worry about—no one will cheat, shortchange, or sell spoiled goods, as such actions are considered haram (sinful). The locals’ deep religiosity and the severity of punishments ensure the absence of theft and alcohol—alcohol is not sold anywhere, even illegally.

Fraud might only occur with taxi drivers, but typically not with locals—mainly with outsiders. Remember: no matter where you need to go in the city, a ride costs around 20 riyals (1 USD = 3.75 riyals), except during evening traffic jams when prices can easily double.

Religion also discourages ostentation and luxury. During ten days of exploring Riyadh, the author saw only one Bentley. Despite the immense wealth in the capital, luxury cars like Ferraris or Lamborghinis are extremely rare, and even SUVs like the Mercedes G-Class are uncommon.

Even the wealthiest Saudis prefer the metro—it’s cheap and fast. Payment is based on time, not distance: a two-hour ride costs 4 riyals (over $1). After this period, a new ticket must be purchased.

Despite the abundance of malls, they are mostly empty; shoppers are primarily tourists. Again, even the richest residents dress very simply, in their tunics, rather than expensive suits with costly ties.

Finally, even in the most prestigious malls (for example, Riyadh Park Mall), you may be pleasantly surprised by discounts on expensive brands. There are no seasonal sales or Black Friday events—any boutique can offer discounts up to 75% on any day.

So don’t hesitate to shop in malls rather than outlets, where goods often linger unsold. In Riyadh, you’re more likely to find high-quality items at significant discounts. As the saying goes, the East is a delicate matter.

By Vugar Vugarli, Riyadh, exclusively for Caliber.Az