Ancient charm meets modern revival in Italy’s Sardinia

Sardinia, with its unspoiled landscapes and rich cultural heritage, offers a distinctive alternative to Italy’s more tourist-heavy destinations. While many regions of the country are suffocating under the weight of overtourism, Sardinia’s southern regions are quietly revitalizing, blending ancient traditions with contemporary charm.

As travelers flock to discover the Mediterranean allure of Sardinia, with its pristine beaches and vibrant capital, locals are hopeful to sidestep the overcrowding that plagues many Italian hotspots, Caliber.Az reports citing the foreign media.

For years, southern Sardinia has been somewhat off the beaten path — a quiet region seemingly overshadowed by its more famous northern counterpart. Yet, recent developments signal a revival of energy and pride. In Cagliari, the island’s dynamic capital, and the surrounding countryside, a new spirit is emerging.

"We used to think of ourselves as isolated, a hidden gem," local historian Venturino Vargiu shared with me during Cagliari’s annual Sant’Efisio festival. "But now we’re realizing our culture has real significance, both for us and for visitors."

Cagliari is experiencing a surge of transformation, aimed at enhancing its appeal to tourists. The Marina district, once a quaint fishermen’s enclave, is being revitalized with a new waterfront promenade designed by architect Stefano Boeri, while a light-rail line will soon connect the city to its outskirts. A new port, set to open in 2026, will redirect cruise ships away from the city center, making room for luxury yachts and boosting local spending.

As the southern coast, with its stunning white-sand beaches and turquoise waters, braces for increased tourism, the challenge will be to harness this influx in a way that benefits the region without succumbing to the pitfalls of overtourism. With the Costa Smeralda in the north having long served as a playground for the elite, can the south develop a more balanced and sustainable approach to tourism? I visited to explore how locals envision a thriving yet harmonious future for their beloved island.

A city that belongs to its residents

“This city is gentrifying for tourists,” remarked Samuele Muscas, co-founder of Sabores, a chic restaurant and natural wine bar nestled in historic Marina storefronts. With a Parisian ambiance but a distinctly local menu and crowd, Sabores stands out among Cagliari's growing array of sophisticated dining spots that rival those in Italy’s major cities. Muscas, who also manages the nearby food shop Sapori di Sardegna, served me a plate of wild asparagus paired with a Deperu Holler white wine from northern Sardinia. Noting that I was the only non-Sardinian in the room, he explained, “We created this place for our community. We welcome tourists, but we want them to experience our culture in a place meant for us.”

“Politics are shifting in Cagliari,” Nicola Marongiu shared the next evening at Pipette, a beloved wood-paneled wine bar also located in Marina. With the recent election of Alessandra Todde as Sardinia’s regional president and Massimo Zedda’s return as mayor of Cagliari, there is a sense of optimism among locals. “There’s a growing sense of community,” Marongiu said with enthusiasm.

Many hope this political change will foster easier opportunities for small businesses, particularly for young people and immigrants, and address issues such as regulating vacation rentals and expanding cultural offerings to attract tourists year-round.

While Cagliari's cultural sites might seem sparse compared to other Italian cities, the city boasts gems like the Archaeological Museum, which showcases an impressive collection of Nuragic, Phoenician, and Roman artifacts, including the stone-carved Nuragic archers known as the Giants of Mont’e Prama. Other notable spots include the Giardino Sonoro, an outdoor music sculpture installation by Pinuccio Sciola, and the Baroque Duomo with its crypt adorned with nearly 200 saint tiles.

Cagliari is best explored on foot. Poetto Beach, with its beach clubs and seafood restaurants like Ristorante Calamosca, is a popular warm-weather destination. The Molentargius salt flats, home to pink flamingos, are nearby, and the St. Remy Bastion offers the city’s finest views. In the evenings, Piazza Gaetano Orrù becomes lively with young people gathering around the Vineria Villanova wine bar, dining at classics like Trattoria Lillicu, or trying out new restaurants such as Retrobanco and Sabores.

Accommodation options are still limited, but recent additions like the boutique Casa Clàt and the quirky Palazzo Tirso by the Accor group offer upscale stays for visitors.

For now, Cagliari retains a unique sense of belonging to its residents, unlike tourist-heavy cities such as Florence or Venice. “But we want visitors here,” said Giuseppe De Martini, head manager at Retrobanco. “Cagliari,” he added, “should become the capital of the Mediterranean.”

An hour’s drive north of Cagliari, Gergei is unlikely to be the next Mediterranean capital, but it turned out to be the most inspiring part of my trip. This tiny town, famous for its quiet charm rather than grand attractions, became a highlight thanks to Samuel Lai, who has created a cultural tourism industry from scratch for his hometown. Lai transformed Domu Antiga, an old property he restored with artisanal techniques and materials, into a collection of stone guesthouses encircling a rose garden. The rooms feature antique farmhouse furnishings and traditional cane ceilings.

“If you create an Airbnb that disconnects from local culture and history, you attract tourists uninterested in the local scene,” Lai observed, prompting me to reconsider booking that next generic vacation rental.

Lai’s cheese workshop, Sinnos, is another compelling reason to visit. He continues a long Sardinian tradition of crafting natural cheeses from his family’s sheep milk. “Food made with care becomes a cultural expression,” he said, as we stirred curds in a fire-heated copper pot. Visitors can enjoy tastings of his exceptional aged cheeses or try their hand at making cheese themselves.

While many Italian villages face declining populations, Lai has managed to thrive in Gergei by intertwining local culture with tourism. He and his family have opened accommodations and restaurants, while several foreigners have bought homes in the area. Domu Antiga, Sinnos cheese, and the village’s various activities embody Lai’s vision of “evolving tradition to keep the roots alive” — sharing the essence of Sardinia, or “sardità,” with the world.

Later that day, as I trekked through the Parco della Giara, I marveled at herds of Europe’s last wild horses grazing amid fields of buttercups and wandered along highland paths through cork forests. Nearby in Barumini, Su Nuraxi stands as one of Sardinia’s most well-preserved prehistoric sites, dating back to 1600 B.C. At S’Acqua Salida, another Nuragic site, I explored ancient stone stairways, caverns, and water wells while enjoying a sweeping view of inland Sardinia’s wilderness: vibrant fields of fuchsia sulla flowers, fennel thickets, and bee-eater birds darting like fireworks between the ruins and the woods.

In the neighboring Sulcis region, I encountered a fresh take on Sardinian identity through Pretziada, the creative studio of Kyre Chenven and Ivano Atzori, who blend traditional craftsmanship with modern design. They recently opened Luxi Bia, a collection of stone guesthouses surrounded by olive groves. These traditional dwellings are adorned with Pretziada’s contemporary, artisan-made furniture, including carved wood-frame beds and sculptural cork side tables.

“In art and design, Modernism has often meant rejecting the past,” Ms. Chenven explained. “We believe in incorporating it instead.” She highlighted how sustainable practices from the past are being revived. Mr. Atzori noted the growing interest in Sardinian culture, which has remained distinct from the Italian mainland. “Any meaningful project here needs to embrace Sardinian identity,” he said.

Later, I explored the Tombe dei Giganti, a Nuragic site with scenic hiking paths overlooking forested hills. Just a short drive away are the idyllic beaches of Porto Pino, Su Portu de Su Trigu, and Is Solinas, as well as the history-rich Sant’Antioco island, connected to the mainland by a narrow land bridge.

In the deeper reaches of Sulcis, known for its former mining operations, the new Le Dune Piscinas hotel opened in May in a repurposed mining storehouse. This ambitious project aims to transform a once industrial area into a nature-themed destination. Surrounded by some of Europe’s tallest sand dunes and facing a secluded beach, Le Dune Piscinas offers a unique escape. “Reviving this place with visitors and our labor of love is the best way forward,” said owner Marcella Tettoni, who dedicated a decade to renovating the hotel.

As I looked out over the long, empty beach, it was hard to imagine this remote part of Sardinia ever becoming crowded. Yet, preserving sardità—Sardinian essence—is delicate, relying on dedicated locals, supportive politicians, and visitors who seek cultural immersion over mere checklist experiences. In this way, we all contribute to preserving and celebrating the unique heritage of Sardinia.