Traveler discovers Afghanistan's hidden beauty amidst growing tourism surge

Ben Herskowitz, a 22-year-old traveler from Vermont, embarked on an extraordinary journey to Afghanistan in May, discovering the country’s breathtaking landscapes and rich history.

Ben Herskowitz stood atop a hill, gazing at the ancient archaeological marvels of Bamiyan, nestled amidst the lofty peaks of the Hindu Kush. In the distance, snow-covered mountains, verdant greenery, and blooming trees stretched across Afghanistan’s Bamiyan Valley, Caliber.Az reports, citing foreign media.

“It’s one of the most stunning places I’ve ever visited,” Herskowitz remarked. “The variety of landscapes here is incredible. I’ve never seen such striking contrasts in one location.”

At 22, Herskowitz, hailing from Vermont, found himself thousands of miles from home in May, largely alone amidst Afghanistan’s breathtaking scenery. “In cities like Rome or Greece, ruins are often swarmed by tourists, but here, you can enjoy these historic and beautiful sites almost in solitude,” he noted.

Although Afghanistan is not typically a tourist destination, visitor numbers have risen since the Taliban's return to power in August 2021, following the US withdrawal. Travelers from around the world are now exploring Afghanistan’s scenic beauty and historical heritage, swimming in Band-e-Amir National Park’s turquoise lakes, discovering Buddhist art and ancient ruins in Bamiyan, and shopping in Kabul’s vibrant bazaars, all while enjoying the famed Afghan hospitality.

According to Mohammad Saeed, head of the Tourism Directorate in Kabul, about 691 tourists visited Afghanistan in 2021, increasing to 2,300 in 2022, and reaching 7,000 in 2023. Since the Taliban's return to power in August 2021, over 10,179 tourists have visited the country, a spokesperson for Afghanistan’s Ministry of Tourism told CNN.

Although these numbers may seem modest, the consistent rise in tourism reflects a growing interest in Afghanistan despite the ongoing humanitarian crisis and poverty stemming from decades of conflict. Many countries have yet to formally recognize the Taliban as the legitimate government, and the United Nations has labeled Afghanistan under Taliban rule as the most repressive country for women's rights.

“There’s a flow of tourists coming into the country since the fall of the republic,” said Khyber Khan, founder of Afghan tour company Unchartered Afghanistan. “Despite being known as a conflict zone, we have so much to offer—our culture, people, and landscapes.” Khan noted an increasing presence of tourists, particularly in Kabul.

Taliban officials claim that tourism is beneficial for the country’s economy. “The growth of the tourism industry has a positive impact on the country’s economy,” said a spokesperson for the Ministry of Culture. The majority of tourists come from the United States, the European Union, China, India, the United Arab Emirates, and Iran. The ministry has established a department to enhance tourism services and train students in tourism and hotel management.

However, some view the influx of tourism money into a country isolated by international sanctions as potentially legitimizing the Taliban’s repressive regime. Richard Bennett, the UN’s special rapporteur for human rights, recently reported being barred from Afghanistan, raising concerns about the Taliban’s engagement with the United Nations and the international community on human rights issues.

Ben Herskowitz, a part-time social media content creator and avid traveler, was inspired to explore Afghanistan after hearing from recent visitors about the country's beauty and hospitality. Despite positive reports from fellow travelers, many Western governments advise against visiting Afghanistan due to safety concerns.

The US State Department has issued a Level 4: Do Not Travel advisory for Afghanistan, citing risks such as terrorism, wrongful detention, civil unrest, kidnapping, and crime. The UK also advises against all travel to the country. In May 2024, a tragic attack in Bamiyan resulted in the deaths of three Spanish tourists among four people when gunmen targeted international tourists and Afghans. The perpetrators remain unidentified.

Despite these warnings, Herskowitz decided to visit Afghanistan, guided by insights from his community of “extreme travelers” who assured him of its relative safety. “I prefer to get my information from friends who have recently visited these places,” Herskowitz said. “From my experience, I felt super safe the entire time.”

Herskowitz, accompanied by his best friend from Vermont and two UK-based travelers, embarked on an eight-day private tour across Afghanistan with two local Afghan guides. His favorite destination was Bamiyan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its ancient ruins and once-majestic Buddha statues, two of which were destroyed by the Taliban in 2001.

He also explored the stunning Band-e-Amir National Park, known for its series of six lakes and dramatic red-hued cliffs. “The park was just out of this world,” Herskowitz said.

What particularly stood out to Herskowitz was the warmth of Afghan hospitality. “The hospitality there is incredibly welcoming,” he noted. “Locals were delighted to see tourists and went out of their way to offer tea, food, and even safe lodging.”

During his stay, Herskowitz encountered several other tourists, including three different 14-member tour groups from Italy, Greece, and Indonesia, reflecting a growing interest in Afghanistan’s unique offerings.