China urges France to scrap “discriminatory” ultra-fast fashion law

China on Thursday, September 3, urged France to abandon a newly implemented law targeting ultra-fast fashion, calling the measure “clearly discriminatory” and warning that Beijing could take action to protect Chinese companies.

The legislation, which took effect on Tuesday, targets major Asian e-commerce platforms including Shein and Temu. It introduces fees on certain fashion items that will eventually rise to almost €20 per garment, as France seeks to limit the sector’s environmental impact and effects on the domestic economy.

“China urges France to immediately halt the implementation of the anti-ultra-fast fashion law,” Chinese Commerce Ministry spokeswoman Huang Ling said at a news conference when asked about the measure.

Huang said China was in “firm opposition to France's insistence on pushing forward this trade-restrictive measure, which is clearly discriminatory”.

“Should France persist in this course of action, China will take necessary measures to safeguard the legitimate rights and interests of Chinese enterprises,” she warned. “France will bear full responsibility for all consequences arising from this.”

Under the French legislation, ultra-fast fashion is defined according to two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. The fee charged per item will be determined according to a set scale based on how each product scores against the two criteria.

Shein, which is known for its ultra-low prices and rapid production of clothing, made a lacklustre debut on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange on Tuesday. The company had previously considered initial public offerings in New York and London, but those plans were derailed.

The online retailer moved its headquarters to Singapore between 2021 and 2022, a move analysts said was intended to shield the company from growing international scrutiny of Chinese firms.

By Tamilla Hasanova