Turkish ice cream eaten with knife and fork
Amidst the warm and bustling streets of Istanbul, a unique frozen delicacy commands attention: dondurma, the Turkish ice cream renowned for its dense texture and distinct method of consumption.
In the bustling district of Bayrampaşa, Istanbul, dondurma reigns supreme as a frozen delight like no other.
Originating from Türkiye's southern province of Kahramanmaraş, dondurma—often translated simply as "ice cream"—stands out for its dense, stretchy texture and unique consumption method, requiring a knife and fork rather than a cone, Caliber.Az reports citing the foreign media.
Despite its creamy appeal, dondurma's journey from Maraş to Istanbul has been marked by challenges, particularly in the wake of devastating earthquakes that shook the region.
Produced for over half a century by dessert master Mehmet Vanlı at Hacıhaliloğlu, dondurma's traditional recipe includes a blend of goat's, sheep's, and cow's milk, salep (orchid bulb flour), and beet sugar. This combination not only lends it a smoother and sweeter taste compared to regular ice cream but also allows it to resist melting under the scorching sun, a testament to Maraş' ideal climate for production.
Dr. Kübra Yüzyüncil, a food and agricultural researcher, underscores the role of Mount Ahır in Maraş, whose high-altitude pastures provide nutrient-rich grazing for goats, contributing to the milk's unique flavor. Additionally, the salep orchid species endemic to this mountain range, known for its high glucomannan content, acts as a stabilizer, allowing Maraş dondurma to stretch without breaking—a hallmark of its quality.
However, Maraş faced a severe setback in February 2023 when powerful earthquakes struck nearby districts, causing widespread devastation and loss of life. Despite this tragedy, local producers persevered, even increasing their production in subsequent years. In 2022, Maraş produced 100,000 tons of dondurma and exported $2.5 million worth, figures that rose to 120,000 tons and $3 million in exports by 2023.
Erdal Kanbur, president of a Maraş-based restaurateurs association, emphasized the resilience of local producers in overcoming the earthquake's aftermath. Despite damages to facilities, efforts were swiftly mobilized to continue production and meet growing demand both domestically and internationally.
As Maraş emerges stronger, Yüzyüncil highlights the strategic investments made by local patisseries in branding and certification, enabling Maraş dondurma to reach global markets without compromising its authentic flavor and texture. This persistence not only sustains Maraş' reputation as Türkiye's leading ice cream producer but also highlights dondurma's enduring appeal as a resilient symbol of Turkish culinary heritage.