Nepal toughens Everest rules: Climbers must conquer 7,000-metre peak first

In a recent article, Reuters highlights that in a bid to enhance safety and curb dangerous overcrowding, Nepal is set to impose new rules for Everest climbers, requiring them to have summited at least one of the country’s 7,000-meter peaks before receiving a coveted permit. 

The new rule comes as Nepal has faced mounting criticism for allowing too many climbers, some with limited experience, to attempt the 8,849-metre Everest. This has led to dangerous congestion in the "death zone"—an area just below the summit where oxygen levels are insufficient for survival. In 2023, 12 climbers died and five went missing, following the issuance of 478 permits. The previous year, eight climbers perished.

Under the proposed law, climbers must provide proof of having successfully summited a 7,000-meter peak in Nepal before being granted an Everest permit. In addition, the sardar (head of local staff) and mountain guide must both be Nepali nationals.

The draft legislation has been submitted to Nepal's National Assembly, where it is expected to pass with the ruling coalition's majority. However, international expedition operators have voiced concerns, urging Nepal to accept climbs from any 7,000-metre peak globally as a qualification for the permit.

Lukas Furtenbach, of the Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, said, "That wouldn't make any sense. And I would also add mountains that are close to 7,000 meters... like Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Denali, and others."

Additionally, Furtenbach stressed the need for foreign mountain guides to be allowed to work on Everest due to a shortage of qualified Nepali guides, while Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering suggested that a 6,500-metre peak globally would be a more practical requirement.

Despite over 400 mountains in Nepal, only a few 7,000-metre peaks attract climbers, according to local officials. Tashi Lhakpa Sherpa, a seasoned guide, emphasised that only a select number of high-altitude peaks are popular among climbers.

By Naila Huseynova