Panemunė road - historic route of smuggling and splendor in Lithuania

Nestled along the banks of the majestic Nemunas River, the Panemunė road is a captivating journey through Lithuania’s rich history and stunning landscapes.

For nearly four decades, intrepid smugglers managed to bring in around 40,000 Lithuanian-language books each year, defying Russian restrictions, Caliber.Az reports, citing foreign media. 

Following the gentle curves of the Nemunas, Lithuania's longest river, the Panemunė road spans over 100 kilometers, tracing the former border between Lithuania and East Prussia (now Kaliningrad, Russia). Locals deem it the most romantic road in Lithuania, as it passes by a series of 17th-century castles, Renaissance mansions, and picturesque towns. However, the route is perhaps best recognized as the backdrop for a remarkable movement in the late 19th century that played a crucial role in preserving the Lithuanian language, often regarded as the oldest surviving Indo-European language in the world.

Panemunė was constructed in the early 13th century as part of a series of medieval fortresses and castles meant to defend the Grand Duchy of Lithuania from invading Teutonic forces from Prussia. By the 1800s, it had evolved into a significant trade and travel route, with the fortresses transforming into noble mansions and smaller towns emerging around them.   Among the many impressive sites along the road is the Castle of Panemunė, a 17th-century manor adorned with intricate frescoes and a park featuring cascading ponds, now converted into an opulent hotel and artist residence.

Ten kilometers to the east lies Raudone ("The Red Castle"), a 16th-century fortress that suffered damage during World War II but has since been restored. It now offers activities such as horseback riding, archery lessons, and a weekly food and arts fair.   Further east, about 20 kilometers away, you’ll find the ancient city of Veliuona and the castle hill of Seredzius. A 30-minute hike up the wooden steps to the top of this verdant hill rewards visitors with panoramic views of the Nemunas River below. As the road curves gracefully before reaching the city of Kaunas, the towers of Raudondvaris Castle come into view.

Situated at the confluence of the Nemunas and Nevezis rivers, this expansive 17th-century estate features a concert hall, a labyrinth park, a museum, and a restaurant. The Panemunė road is often referred to as the "paradise road" in Lithuania due to its breathtaking landscapes, rich history, and a variety of cultural experiences. According to Eglė Speičienė, founder of the local travel agency TavoGidas, visitors can enjoy attractions such as the Honey Valley, boat trips on the River Nemunas, tastings of local dandelion wine, as well as art and history museums, food fairs, and cultural events held in the Renaissance mansions along the route. With its many castles, rolling hills, and boutique wineries, some travelers even compare Panemunė to France's renowned Loire Valley.  

Yet, the road is not only famous for its picturesque scenery and enchanting castles; it was also the site of a significant Lithuanian movement in the late 19th century that played a crucial role in shaping the nation’s identity: book smuggling. From 1865 to 1904, the Lithuanian language was banned under tsarist Russian rule, which controlled much of the region at the time. This prohibition restricted the printing, possession, and distribution of any publications in Lithuanian using the Latin alphabet, but rather than leading to full Russification, it had the opposite effect.

By Naila Huseynova