Climate change, pests threaten Türkiye’s hazelnut legacy in Giresun

BBC highlights that nestled in the Pontic mountain range of northeastern Türkiye, Giresun is renowned for its stunning landscapes and rich tradition of hazelnut farming, a practice that has empowered local women for centuries. 

Fans of flavored coffee or sweet treats might not realize that most of the world’s hazelnuts come from a seaside mountain range in Türkiye, where women have been cultivating them for centuries. Nestled on the slopes of the Pontic mountain range overlooking the Black Sea in northeastern Türkiye, the ancient city of Giresun is celebrated not only for its breathtaking coastal views and rugged mountains but primarily for its hazelnuts.

Türkiye produces over 72 per cent of the world's hazelnuts, with about 60 per cent originating from the Eastern Black Sea region where Giresun is located. The tradition of hazelnut farming here spans thousands of years, with the ancient Greek historian Herodotus praising Türkiye's hazelnut abundance in the 5th century BC. Since the 1400s, hazelnuts from Giresun and the surrounding areas have been exported to Europe and beyond.

The BBC program Discovering the World's Table delves into Türkiye's rich hazelnut heritage. Before hazelnuts find their way into products like Nutella, they are farmed in regions like Giresun, where women have historically been the primary growers. Today, they are increasingly taking charge of the production and sale of hazelnut products, including various chocolate offerings. 

Previously, many hazelnuts were exported and then imported back to Türkiye as finished products like chocolate bars and spreads. However, businesses like Home of the Hazelnut, founded by three sisters with deep roots in the local industry, are changing that dynamic. “In this region, 80 per cent of hazelnut products are processed by women,” says Sayari Sungur, one of the company’s owners and co-founders, during her conversation with Discovering the World's Table host Nick Kwek. “Women have always been the best caretakers of these nuts, both in the fields and gardens. Now we want these women to become both the growers and decision-makers.”

Since its establishment nine years ago, Home of the Hazelnut has upheld Giresun's ancient traditions while serving as a model for a new generation of local women entrepreneurs. Sungur takes pride in her family's achievements and the inspiration it provides to other women in the area to launch their own businesses. "As more women recognize the value of this product, many are beginning to produce and own it. I think this is phenomenal," she told the BBC. 

However, despite the ongoing success of Türkiye's hazelnut industry, challenges loom ahead. Similar to many regions globally, the ability to cultivate hazelnut trees and shrubs in Türkiye is increasingly threatened by environmental factors. Climate change is impacting crops, resulting in higher humidity and an influx of pests that can harm hazelnut plants. "New pests have emerged over the past three or four years due to changing climates," explained Dr. Sebahat K. Ozman-Sullivan, a plant protection scientist and hazelnut farmer from the Giresun region. "It's a significant challenge to manage, as they affect many plants. 

Additionally, the increased humidity has led to mildew disease," she added, noting that hazelnuts typically thrive in drier conditions. Ozman-Sullivan is concerned that local efforts to combat pest issues may be counterproductive: "People use pesticides, but that’s not ideal since many microorganisms in the soil need to be preserved."

Hazelnut farmers in Giresun take great pride in the abundance their unique mountain-sea ecosystem provides, and many, like Ozman-Sullivan, are committed to safeguarding it and their traditions for future generations. "We want to continue growing hazelnuts in this beautiful landscape," she said.

By Naila Huseynova