France greenlights tougher rules for ultra-fast fashion retailers

The French Parliament has approved a revised bill aimed at curbing ultra-fast fashion, targeting e-commerce platforms including Shein, Temu and AliExpress after years of debate over how to align the legislation with European Union regulations, France 24 reports.

The measure was approved by the Senate on Monday after clearing the National Assembly last week. It introduces a per-item levy on mass-produced textile goods that will increase over time and imposes a ban on advertising by ultra-fast fashion brands, including promotions by social media influencers.

French lawmakers hope the legislation will curb the rapid expansion of Asian online retailers, which have gained significant market share in France in recent years.

Trade Minister Serge Papin said last week that the bill was designed to target the companies driving the surge in ultra-fast fashion.

"Their names, which were still unknown three years ago... are now on everyone's lips in France: Temu, Shein and AliExpress," he said.

The textile industry is estimated to account for nearly 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, with fast fashion widely criticized for encouraging excessive consumption through inexpensive, disposable clothing.

Under the legislation, ultra-fast fashion companies will be assessed based on two criteria: the volume of clothing they place on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. The per-item levy will vary according to each company's performance against those benchmarks.

The penalty could rise to as much as €20 ($23) per item by 2030, although it will remain capped at 50% of a product's pre-tax price. Part of the revenue generated will be directed toward textile collection and recycling infrastructure.

The bill also requires ultra-fast fashion retailers to display messages on their websites encouraging consumers to adopt more sustainable habits, including reusing and repairing clothing.

A ban on advertising by ultra-fast fashion brands—including promotions by influencers—forms one of the legislation's central provisions. However, questions remain over how such a ban could be enforced.

The European Commission has raised concerns over whether the advertising restrictions comply with EU law.

According to lawmakers backing the bill, the French government believes the measure is based on principles similar to those underpinning restrictions on advertising for alcohol and tobacco products.

The legislation has drawn criticism from some lawmakers and environmental groups for excluding European fast-fashion brands such as Zara, H&M and French retailer Kiabi.

Charles Fournier of the Green Party argued that the original proposal had been significantly diluted.

"The original bill had been considerably scaled back," Fournier said, adding that brands such as Zara and H&M "have not become models of sustainable fashion."

The advocacy coalition Stop Fast Fashion also criticized what it described as a "greatly watered-down" version of the original proposal.

Meanwhile, Anne-Cécile Violland, the centrist lawmaker who introduced the bill, defended the revised text, saying lawmakers needed legislation that could be implemented without delay.

"We're coming down very hard on Shein, and that's the first step," she said, adding that she understood the disappointment expressed by critics.

Violland acknowledged that if the European Commission ultimately concludes that the advertising provisions violate EU law, France would be unable to enforce that aspect of the legislation.

By Vafa Guliyeva