Thrilling family adventure in Swiss Alps

Engelberg, nestled in the Swiss Alps, has long been a magnet for skiing enthusiasts drawn to its towering Titlis peak and accessible glacier. Now, the picturesque town is setting its sights on a new demographic: summer adventurers. This initiative promises to offer visitors an immersive experience in the stunning landscapes and traditional life of this alpine region.

Farmers in Switzerland's Engelberg region once relied on a cable car network for mountain transport, which has now been repurposed into a hiking trail accessible to tourists.

In the heart of Switzerland, amidst the mountains above Engelberg, my partner, our two-year-old, and I found ourselves in an unexpected situation. We were lodged in a barn at Alp Oberfeld, technically situated beneath the upper floor where the Käslin family tends to their 100 goats. The barn's rustic charm was interrupted by the bleats of a goat in our bedroom at dawn, reminding us of the farm's daily rhythm of milking at 6am, Caliber.Az reports citing the foreign media.

Next to me, my son stirred and yawned. I held my breath, expecting him to wake up any moment, but instead, he snuggled closer under my arm and drifted back to sleep—a rare occurrence back home. Normally, I would have been surprised, but on our third and final morning on the Buiräbähnli Safari trail, it felt like the kind of enchantment we had grown accustomed to.

Engelberg, renowned among avid skiers for its 3,238m peak of Titlis and accessible glacier, is now seeking to attract summer adventurers with a newly launched 29-mile (46km) hiking route. This initiative by the local tourist office aims to showcase the region beyond its winter appeal.

Buiräbähnli, which means "farmer's cableways" in local Swiss-German, refers to a series of small, often quirky, cable cars built across Switzerland after World War II. These cableways were originally designed to transport machinery, building materials, and supplies to farms nestled among the peaks. They quickly became a cultural icon with more than 100 scattered throughout the country, each crafted to fit the specific needs of its location. However, over the decades, as maintenance costs increased and more roads were constructed, the number of these cable cars in the Engelberg region—once fondly known as the "Valley of the Cable Cars"—has more than halved.

"They are still essential for many of us in these mountains," Nadine, a volunteer at Alp Oberfeld, explained. "Especially in places like this, where there is still no road access." We arrived late on our second day, following the resident goats through swirling clouds as a summer storm brewed.

The new circular trail, which is occasionally marked and offers useful GPX files and detailed maps on the official site, starts from Engelberg train station. It connects eight cableways using a special Buiräbähnli Pass (priced from 47CHF/£41). The route meanders through breathtaking landscapes, providing insights into local farms, traditional life, and opportunities to observe wildlife—all at a relatively affordable cost by Swiss standards.

For trail runners and adventure enthusiasts, completing the trail in approximately 12.5 hours is feasible, but for a more immersive experience, breaking the journey into three stages with two overnight stays at farms or mountain huts along the way is recommended. Due to limited accommodation, reservations are advised.

We traveled on the Eurostar to Paris, using our Interrail passes which offered a more economical fare than standard tickets. From there, we continued to Berne, Lucerne, and eventually arrived in Engelberg, where we checked into the Ski Lodge opposite the station, exhausted but ready for adventure.

Equipped with a rucksack filled with waterproofs, sunscreen, snacks, packed lunch, and spare clothes (bedding provided at all accommodations), and carrying our 14kg son in a child carrier, we embarked on our first and longest day: a 14-mile trek from our hotel to a mountain farm just above the village of Wolfenschiessen.

Taking it slow and steady, we transitioned from houses and city streets to the lower slopes of Huetstock, a peak known for sightings of ibex, chamois, and marmots. The air was filled with the chiming of cowbells as we passed fields of purple Alpine clover and bright yellow trefoil blooms. Already, I felt captivated by the surroundings.

After pausing to enjoy our picnic among the trees, we continued our trek, following a path that wound behind a small waterfall. From there, we were treated to breathtaking views back towards Engelberg that made us stop in our tracks.