Move over Dubai: Baku blends luxury, culture, affordability like no other US travel writer’s captivating take on Azerbaijan’s capital

The American website Beach.com has featured a travelogue by Georgie Darling, who eloquently recounted her experiences during a visit to Azerbaijan. Caliber.Az is offers its readers selected excerpts from the article.

‘I’ve spent months in Dubai over the last few years, so I know a thing or two about glitzy skylines, rooftop pools, and luxury brunches that cost more than a flight home. But recently I got the chance to venture somewhere new with all of the same perks yet fewer crowds and way lower prices: Baku, Azerbaijan.

I spent some time here recently and left wondering why it’s still flying under the radar. You get all the glamour—beach clubs, rooftop bars, mirrored skyscrapers—but without the eye-watering prices or the influencer overload. There’s a buzz to the city, but it’s grounded in history: centuries-old hammams in the Old City one minute and DJ sets by the Caspian Sea the next.

It’s like Dubai’s cooler, slightly more offbeat cousin and I’m calling it now: this is the beach city to watch.

The Beach Scene

One of the biggest surprises about Baku? Just how much of a beach holiday it can be.

I’d always pictured the Caspian Sea as a bit industrial. Not somewhere you’d go for poolside spritzes and sunset swims. But that changed when I arrived at Sea Breeze Resort, Baku’s answer to The Palm (only way more chill, way less pricey, and—for now—still pretty under the radar).

It’s just a 30-minute drive north of the city, but feels like its own world. You’ll find sprawling private beaches, glitzy day clubs, music festivals, and over 60 swimming pools spread across manicured lawns and sleek villas. I spent the afternoon dipping between Surf Sea Breeze (Azerbaijan’s first-ever artificial surf pool), the main infinity pool, and a quiet little sandy patch near Fish Box, where I ordered grilled prawns, cold white wine, and watched the kite surfers launch off the pier.

That said, you don’t have to go full glam to enjoy Baku’s coastline. The Caspian might not be turquoise like the Med, but it’s calm, warm, and dotted with beaches that suit every vibe, from family-friendly to full-on party mode.

If you’re after something a little more low-key, Shikhov Beach is one of the city’s original local hangouts. I saw couples renting pedalos, kids wading in the shallows, and little food kiosks selling grilled corn and iced tea.

Further south, I spent a quiet afternoon at Sahil Beach, which has a few smart beach clubs like Amburan Beach Club, plus loungers, changing rooms, and DJs on the weekends. It’s a little pricier than Shikhov but still far less than anything you’d pay in Dubai. I loved how clean the water was here, and how easy it was to get to (around 25 minutes by car from the center).

The City Life

One of the things I loved most about Baku is how sharply it flips between ancient and sci-fi. One minute you’re wandering through cobbled streets that feel like they belong in Morocco or Istanbul and the next, you’re staring up at futuristic flame-shaped skyscrapers that glow pink and purple after sunset. It’s ideal if you’re travelling with people who want different things: one can lie on a sun lounger, the other can experience endless day trips and sights.

I started in Icherisheher, the city’s Old Town. It’s Baku’s historic heart, all sandstone alleyways, fortress walls, and flat-roofed buildings with tangled vines and brass teapots in the windows.

The Palace of the Shirvanshahs is right in the middle of it all: a 15th-century royal complex that feels like it’s been frozen in time. It’s one of those places that doesn’t need much signage or explanation. You just wander and imagine what it was like 600 years ago with camels and sultans and flowing robes. (And yes, if you’re a sucker for a good photo spot, this place delivers.)

Just outside the Old City, you hit the Flame Towers—three enormous glass skyscrapers that look like they’ve landed from 2035. You can see them from almost anywhere in the city, but they’re best viewed from across the water on Baku Boulevard. I went down just before sunset, picked up an ice cream, and watched the towers light up in a hypnotic LED show that runs every night.

Even more surreal is the Heydar Aliyev Centre, a curving white spaceship of a building designed by Zaha Hadid. Inside, there’s a museum, a concert hall, and a gallery. Every angle gives you a different view, and the wide grassy lawns around it were full of couples having picnics and kids on scooters.

The best bit? All of this is so easy to get around. Baku’s metro is clean and simple, the streets are super walkable, and even a cab across the city only set me back around $5.

And while it definitely has that slick, hyper-designed aesthetic that Dubai is known for, Baku still feels authentic.

One of the biggest (and most welcome) surprises in Baku was the food. I’d expected a lot of kebabs and pilaf (and don’t get me wrong, those are definitely here!) but what I didn’t expect was the sheer variety, quality, and design of the city’s food and drink scene. Baku’s dining landscape is growing fast, and it already rivals Dubai in one key area: personality.

Start with the local food. Azerbaijani cuisine blends Turkish, Persian, and Eastern European influences, and it’s bold, warming, and full of flavour. I had qutab (stuffed flatbreads), dolma wrapped in vine leaves, and some of the best lamb dishes I’ve tasted in years. Every meal came with fresh herbs, homemade yoghurt, and baskets of still-warm bread. Most local restaurants are unpretentious but stylish, and the quality is consistently high."